In mid-August this year, I spent a week in Mogadishu
attending the annual book fair there. The general manager of my hotel was a
Kenyan, and an Egyptian chef also worked there. I chatted with them briefly and
asked about their job experiences in Mogadishu and their impressions of the
city and its residents. Their answers were short, but they did not reveal much.
Then, in early September, I stumbled upon a live Facebook presentation titled (in
Arabic) “The Migration of Arab Doctors to Somalia,” by Doctor Ashraf (no last
name was provided). Luckily, he was waiting for more participants to join the
live program.
A few minutes after I joined, he started his talk in a quiet,
smooth Syrian dialect. Ashraf said he wanted to share his experiences about his
life and job as a dentist in Mogadishu. More Arab doctors, both men and women, kept
joining the program. For the purposes of length and clarity, here is a
condensed version of Ashraf’s presentation:
On securing the job
A friend, a fellow Syrian dentist, recommended that I come to
Mogadishu. Not just any foreigner can go and work there—you have to have a job
contract through an employer, who will in turn send you a visa and an airline
ticket. When you arrive in Mogadishu, the employer will secure a residency
permit for you. Because there are no Somali embassies now in many Arab
countries, you can get your visa at Mogadishu airport for $60.
On salaries
The average Arab dentist makes between $1,000 and $1,300 per
month, plus a five or ten percent commission for every procedure. Those with
experience or who are specialists make close to $2,500 per month. A recent
graduate of dentistry will not be hired there, as at least one year’s
experience is required. The good thing is that dentists can often save their
whole salary because employers provide housing and sometimes food.
If you have to pay your food expenses, it is relatively cheap;
I don’t spend more than $150 per month on food in Mogadishu.
On diet
The food is ok, but there aren’t many vegetables and fruits
in the Somali diet. I do miss Syrian food, which includes all kinds of
vegetables. Sometimes, I go to the supermarket in Mogadishu, where I can get
all types of food and snacks, like anywhere else in the world. Somalis get a
lot of stuff, ranging from medical devices to various types of food, from Dubai.
Weather
Mogadishu has beautiful weather, with a breezy wind that is
lovely. I was in Khartoum, Sudan, before, and it is very hot there, just like
the Gulf countries. Mogadishu is hot only in March. Sometimes I go to the beach,
which is within walking distance.
On security
I can’t say whether it is very safe here or not. When I go to
the supermarket, a guard comes with me until I finish my errands. Occasionally,
there are bombings that lead to blockades in the city; however, it is fine
overall.
Language
Somali is a distinct language with a Latin alphabet. We have
assistants who also serve as interpreters, and they speak Arabic or English.
Somali patients
There are patients who really make me happy when I am treating
them. However, some get frustrated with me at times due to the language barrier
and the inadequacy of translation. The Somalis are good people, and they are
all Muslims.
Diseases
For the year I have been here, I have encountered only two
patients with Hepatitis B, and this only came out while I was doing their
medical history. There are cases of malaria, but I don’t think there are
problems with other diseases.
Number of Arab doctors
We have mostly Syrians here. I met two Egyptian doctors who
are general practitioners and two Yemenis working in a lab. The doctors get
together every Friday; in fact, we are having a party tomorrow, which will be
attended by 28 doctors. Most of the Arab doctors are men, although there are
two couples, both husband and wife doctors. Personally, I do not encourage
female doctors to come and work here. It is challenging enough for bachelors,
let alone families. I do not know much about schools for children, but I know
there are Somali universities and some even teach medicine.
Corruption
Occasionally, the agency sponsoring doctors may engage in
misconduct. A contract may be cancelled after three months in favor of a new,
cheaper contract. You may lose about $900 or a month’s salary as a victim of
such misdeeds. Unfortunately, this has happened to me and some others, too. I invite
Arab doctors to come and work here, but I tell them I will not be responsible
for anything that has to do with job contracts.
What is next?
In five days, I will complete my one year of work in
Mogadishu. Generally, we work 11 months, and the last month is a paid vacation
with free airline tickets. I may stay here one more month or two, but I doubt I
will be here for six more months. I may look for another job opportunity elsewhere.
End of the presentation
***
Conclusion
In a nutshell, the fact that there are foreign doctors working
in Mogadishu seems a positive development. It shows the potential the city has for
job opportunities, booming business, and creative enterprises. Mogadishu has
different attributes that do not revolve around government corruption,
political impasses, and terrorist bombings. There is another side of the city
that operates without being hampered by a state of fear or endless political
chatter.
The Arab doctors all saw an opportunity in Mogadishu that is
financially rewarding and adventurously intriguing. It is interesting that some
foreign doctors are willing to take risks by working in Mogadishu when many of
us Somalis in the diaspora are suffering from psychological impediments that
shackle our desire to move there. To many of us, a return to Somalia is viewed through
the narrow prism of seeking a government job. Mogadishu has other opportunities
that need to be explored or created.
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